Occasionally problems can arise that make your order either problematic, or impossible to pleat. Below is a list of such issues that can delay your order, and/or add additional cost. You will be contacted prior to your order starting, to discuss potential issues, and the particulars of your order.
1. Hemmed incorrectly – Sometimes hemming done before pleating is done poorly, and renders the fabric useless. Read The Biggest Problem When Hemming Your Pleats for more information on this.
2. Fabric excessively wrinkled – This point is pretty self explanatory. However, sometimes when the fabric finally arrives to us, it is in a poor state and looks like a crumpled ball. For softer fabrics this is sometimes not an issue as the fabric will relax, but stiffer fabrics will need to be pressed flat before pleating. This means more steps are needed to complete your order, hence, more time added to your original quoted lead time.
3. Warped grain of fabric– Depending on the severity, this point can have a significant impact on the quality of your pleating. To test for this, you need a large flat cutting table to lay out and analyze your fabric. Some things to look out for would be: When ripping your fabric, does the cross grain lay straight or is it crooked? If you fold your fabric in half and match the selvage edges together, are they the same distance? When laid flat on the table, is the fabric really the shape of a rectangle, or is it more like a trapezoid, or a parallelogram?
4. Tulle fabric not rolled properly – The majority of tulle fabrics available in the market are very inexpensive and often handled/packaged very poorly. If you have worked with this fabric before, you know that the nature of handling this fabric is very difficult. Therefore, if it is not rolled properly, or if it is folded haphazardly with excessive creases, it must be rerolled and pressed again, and can often become more time consuming than the pleating process itself.
5. Leather skins with coatings – Some leathers have coatings that can make the pleating process problematic. We will test your leather before your order is processed, and you will be contacted if any suspicions arise.
6. Hand painted, dyed, or digitally printed fabric – Yes! We can pleat your fabric after it is dyed. However, if your fabric is not properly “fixed”, the colors will run and ruin our pleating molds. Therefore, we recommend either machine pleating, or certain sizes of pleating molds that are expressly reserved for these situations. When you call us we can discuss your options.
7. Close out or Sale fabrics – We all love a deal (especially on fabric), but if you don’t understand how to evaluate the quality of fabric I would avoid purchasing large quantities of close out fabrics until you have have the opportunity to test it out. If the price is nominal, then go for it, but be forewarned: If it’s for an important garment, or a project that will have a lot of labor, your end product may not look so good. We have noticed in some cases cheap fabric is cheap for a reason, and often the reason is severely warped grain lines that can create SSSSOOOOOO many problems during the production process, that the extra expenses are often huge compared to the amount saved.